Our return to Lin, Albania

On the Albanian shore of Lake Ohrid lies the small village of Lin. The village is situated below a massive rock formation which juts out a few hundred meters into Ohird and the lake shore. At the very end of this great rock sit two communist-era bunkers erected by the Albanian dictator Enver Hoxha.

Three years ago, we stopped at Lin and were lucky to have some local children as our guides.  On our return, we sought out the same children who gave us such a memorable tour the first time through and took them out to dinner at a local restaurant as a thank  you.

Here we are sitting on top of the bunker over Ohrid. Residents have convereted this particular bunker into a shrine and the children asked that we place some coins there for good luck.

Lin, Albania

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A Quick Swim in Lake Ohrid

Michael found the beaches in Tushemisht too littered for a comfortable non-repugnant swim, so he seemingly decided to give up on Lake Ohrid. We stopped in quite a few places with better cleaner beaches than Tushemisht; Pogradec was one of these places. But Michael seemed convinced in his decision so I stopped asking him if he wanted to take a dip. Driving back from Pogradec to Tirana, however, he just suddenly pulled over in the middle of nowhere, and told me he’s changed his mind as he was taking his shirt off. So he went in for a quickie. I’m glad he did, so glad I didn’t want to ruin his moment by asking him to put his shirt back on when we drove off. I should have, it was a little embarrassing when he was pulled over by a cop, shirtless, for trying to pass a big truck on a narrow and curvy pass.

Quick Swim in Lake Ohrid

Good Morning – Tushemisht, Albania

Tushemisht – Morning

Since we arrived so late and exhausted the previous night, we walked around a bit in the morning to see the beaches in Tushemisht near the Hotel Millenium. I was pretty disappointed with the amount of trash that the locals were throwing on the beach and in a small stream that was feeding into the southern shore; disappointed enough to not want to go swimming there. The Millenium Hotel was great, with an amazing view of Lake Ohrid, but sadly I remember the unkempt nature of the beach as a lasting impression.


This beach has only recently gotten that dirty. It’s all superficial (though heavy) pollution. I mean that the water of the lake and the beaches themselves are very clean so once you manage to dive in, it’s pretty pleasant. The locals put up with the thrash because most of them just don’t know any better, but it’s unlikely that any tourist will excuse the flagrant negligence and disregard in maintaining the beach. Tushemisht has always been pretty isolated, and members of the bureau would come there in the summer to spend their holidays during communism. I know their villas are somewhere around the coast of the lake, but I’ve never seen them; I guess I haven’t been in Tushemisht all that often. There are some really nice restaurants in the area, but unfortunately we didn’t have time to eat there. I suggest anyone to try the Koran fish, it’s endemic to Lake Ohrid so you won’t find it anywhere else, not that fresh anyway.


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